Obviously, your draw length determines the minimum length of your arrows, but what determines the maximum (or ideal) length? Personal preference?
Manufacturing standards. I think all companies make their shafts 32 inches. I think it may take a special order to get them longer. At least the bare shafts I have purchased, both carbon and cedar, came stock at 32 and I cut them down to fit me.
I know, but how do you cut them down? For example, my draw length is 27" - therefore, my arrows can't be cut any shorter than that, or they won't reach the riser/rest. But, they can be anywhere between 27" and 32". How do you decide how long???
personal preference=yes. my draw length is 27"...my bare arrows are cut to 28 1/4".i personally do this on my hunting bow because i want that broadhead in front of my hand and fingers.i have also a few shorter arrows(27 1/4") and 1 longer arrow(29") i found at the range one day,they all shoot the same as far as groups go(for me).length doesnt seem to affect grouping very much.i have seen many a bow with the arrow barely long enough to make it to the rest-to me thats trouble looking for a home :shock: so i believe theres no right or wrong,just make sure you get the correct spine for your draw weight/length.if your hunting make them around the front of the riser for safety reasons.
For my cedar shafts I use with my recurve I just leave them at 32". For carbons I have the place I buy them from cut them, Corner Archery gets my business, or I go out to Creed's place and use his saw. In addition to length the arrows have have the correct spine, or stiffness. The longer they are the stiffer the spine they need to have. So buy cutting them you may be able to use a less stiff spine because they won't be as whippy, which in turn be a lighter shaft and generate a little more speed. Generally the stiffer the spine the heavier the material. For instance I shoot Gold Tip shafts with a 7595 spine, they weigh 8.9 grains per inch, the lighter spined shafts are 5575's and they weigh 8.2 gpi. I shoot a 30" arrow, if I was shooting a 27 or 28 inch shaft I could drop down to the 5575 and probably pick up a few fps. Hope this makes sense to you. I understand how it works but have a hard time articulating it on occasion.
to agree with azslim...the guys who shoot mainly 3d and such lean towards a lighter shorter arrow so they have less drop and more speed.hunters need kenetic energy to penetrate better.here is a good link to mess with and learn about kenetic energy... http://www.bowsite.com/bowsite/features/practical_bowhunter/penetration/index.cfm
Wow, For such a simple question??? LOL Preference is key. Literally, How far do you want the head away from your hand when you draw. As I shoot a drop away, all I have to worry about is missing the shelf when I draw. If I miss the shelf I'm good to go. Also my rest sits way back on the shelf, allowing me shorter arrows. Which for my set up give me better FOC, and KE. and make those little shafts just hummmmmm.. I have my carbons cut to where my heads will just clear the rest by 1/2" or so at full draw. And use the heaviest arrow in the type I shoot ( Easton Axis 340's) that is spined correctly for my draw weight (Right now 75lbs.) ANd I end up with an arrow that weighs 400 grains and is right at 27.25 " long ( shaft only). THen I add everything and end up with a shooting weight of 528 grains. Which then gets spit out of my bow at around 320+FPS... Causing loads and loads of KE way down range. LOL I could very easily go with a lighter arrow, and probably get them to fly , or maybe even a heavier arrow, ( I'm looking at the full metal jackets,, but dont tell the wife.) LOL. But I have in the past decided through many trial and error sequences, to stick with the correctly spined arrows for my draw weight, and the length I choose to shoot. The " arrow charts" for some reason are not to be taken lightly..LOL>. Much easier to believe them the first time then have to buy another couple of dozen arrows cause you " wanted to try something " LOL PS dont tel the wife that last part either..... Thanks Shane
Wow Coues, what flavor bow are you shooting? That is some tremendous speed for a heavy arrow. I have a Reflex Grizzly set at 70 lbs shooting 30" GT's & 100 gr heads, total weight is around 417 grs. I get 275 fps with 4" vanes and 280 fps with 2" blazer vanes. This is measured by my chrono set up in my backyard. Creed shoots a Hoyt Trykon with pretty much the same set-up for arrows/heads and he runs the same speed.
well coues you must be shooting a cross bow or the chrono you used is way off,320 isnt possible with the specs you just provided ,by any bow made.maybe you ment 220fps.i have a 27" draw and shoot a 395 grain arrow about 250fps at 65 lbs draw weight.
It is possible with some of the heavy draw Bowtech's, or so I have heard. There is one a guy that talks(brags) about on NAHC that supposedly has a 100 lb draw, you have 1 pin from 0 to 60 yds. I would love to get my hands on one just to see if I could draw it, and if things on my body didn't rip or dislocate I may consider buying one. Checking the website I see the Bowtech Tribute goes up to 80 lb draw, that would certainly add a little speed.