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Cannot go wrong with a 30-06. that will take all game in north America.
The Creedmoor will only shoot if you have a man bun and hunt in flip-flops.

300 WM is nice but not needed. You're not shooting an elk at 700 yards or anything else i would hope. A 243 is a great rifle fo deer and stink pigs. I have all three along with numerous other rifles but I only hunt with the 30-06 with SST 180gr. You should really get into loading your own rounds so you never need to worry about ammo. I have not bought ammo since 2010.
 

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308. I'm very happy with mine...shorter barrel (I like to bushwack and climb), different bullet weights for different animals, recoil, access to ammo and cost...
For factory loads mine loves Barnes. AR10 option is another good point you mentioned. I personally like to simplify my calibers. I'm afraid if I go down the path other calibers I'll end up with a riffle for every occasion and that is too much for me to keep track of.
 

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For big game hunting in AZ I don’t think you can go wrong with .30-06, .270 Win, .308 Win or 7mm-08. The latter can be tough to find on shelves right now so unless you handload…

Hearing good things about 6.5 Creedmore but I’ve no personal experience with one. Not yet sure how it’d perform on big elk bulls at long ranges.
 

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Again, and said before, this topic becomes like which tires should I buy or which truck is best. Everyone loves what they are shooting or they would not be shooting it. Khmer6 and several others have said it, buy the one that is the easiest to get ammo, powder, bullets for because with the next shelf clearing shortage many of the other calibers will be hard to get. Military rounds make brass easier to find as well as bullets and the 06 is up there with the 308.
 

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I have a Donald Milligan custom made Ruger M77 in 7mm. It has a fully free floating barrel and recoil is a moot point. The only reason I don't shoot it too often is that I have to let it sit for at least 15 minutes to cool down to the barrel heat causing trajectory distortion: ever two shots if it is below 40 degrees. All around, I trust the 30-06 or the 270 more. Through research, I have discovered that the .308 with small rifle primers has an issue with accuracy in low temps, which is and issue up here in the White Mountains. All 1k rounds I have for the .308 are small primers so I wont even try it. I agree with most of the guys that the versatility of the -06, availability of ammo and proven results make it a preferred caliber out to 600 yds or so. The Question is, are you looking for longer range than that?
 

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Any common .30 caliber hunting round (not .30 carbine) would be my choice if I was going to pick one rifle for deer AND elk. .308, .30-06 are both good options and readily available ammo. Can get it at walmart most of the time.
 

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Discussion Starter · #30 ·
30-06. Just the versatility of the round sells me. Anything from a javelina to a bear. It will kill anything in the U.S. just by switching bullets. A nice 30-06 rifle with a vortex scope and your set for life. If I make it to rabbit camp ill bring a 308 bolt and a 30-06 bolt and your can try both. Or if you want to meet up at the range sometime I can bring both for you too try.
Your too kind sir, my offer for Cmoor stands, I’ll bring you (or anyone else) a box of ammo just to shoot a couple rounds. Let me know what kind you like to run
 

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Discussion Starter · #31 ·
I have a Donald Milligan custom made Ruger M77 in 7mm. It has a fully free floating barrel and recoil is a moot point. The only reason I don't shoot it too often is that I have to let it sit for at least 15 minutes to cool down to the barrel heat causing trajectory distortion: ever two shots if it is below 40 degrees. All around, I trust the 30-06 or the 270 more. Through research, I have discovered that the .308 with small rifle primers has an issue with accuracy in low temps, which is and issue up here in the White Mountains. All 1k rounds I have for the .308 are small primers so I wont even try it. I agree with most of the guys that the versatility of the -06, availability of ammo and proven results make it a preferred caliber out to 600 yds or so. The Question is, are you looking for longer range than that?
Absolutely no longer than that! If I shoot longer than that it’s going to be at paper, I’m nowhere near seasoned enough to be sending that far of a shot at animals anytime soon, hell That’s too far at the moment. But that’s what I want to change!
 

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Discussion Starter · #32 ·
Don't get a crossfire for your hunting rifle. You probably won't be able to use the same 308 ammo in an ar10 and bolt gun because of the soft tips and feeding of an autoloader.
If a gun manufacturer let you try every gun they made and every caliber it would be moot. Weight and other factors at play when it comes to recoil.
Are you going to carry up and down canyons? Do you want an ultralight? Just light enough? Do you like carrying a 300 RUM and 10lb rifle and shoot from the truck?
I guess I kinda figured a .308 is a .308… didn’t realize some may not work well based on the action of the gun. Good thing to keep in mind, and I want one that I can hike miles with and actually hunt, not use the truck as a rest lol so maybe the 6-8lbs range.
 

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So, if you are shooting long range just for shooting long range on game 300WM since that is what Special Forces (police) use for sniping. It takes out humans at distances. Creedmore is great for long range target but I would not consider it for game at distance because it has lost it's energy down range. It tings the metal target and that counts in competition but not putting the lights out on something important. It (300WM) punches through glass windshields, plate glass windows and other items that need to be penetrated in special ops situations. Competition is not real life, just saying.
 

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If budget is a factor, Tikka’s are hard to beat. Probably the best under 1k rifle made. Stick with US made optics. Don’t cheap out and buy a low end Vortex. Cry once and buy Leupold. As for caliber, I am a 270 guy but go with what you can shoot comfortably.
 

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I have a vortex diamondback 4-16x44. It's a great scope for $300 and a forever warranty. Mounted on a Mossberg Patriot rifle 3006.
$300.
Great gun too.
You don't need a $1k gun as your first bolt action. You might hate bolts. Hunting with an AR sucks. It's heavy and awkward to carry for this kind of thing.
Better scopes for hunting run up to around $1600
 

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Compare any brand name scope today to ANY scope from the 50s to the the 80s, probably the 90s too... They are far and away better than any of the glass used to be.
And I am pretty sure that 40 to 70 years ago people still made shots with the inferior glass of those days.
OP doesn't need to break the bank for a meat getter.
I want to start practicing with bigger rounds and longer distances so that if I ever do get drawn I am confident in my ability with a rifle

Also, remember there is no scope maker where everything is made in the states right now. (Please enlighten me if I'm wrong) Might be assembled here. Tubes or internals might be made here. But the glass is gonna be made elsewhere. Might be Germany, Japan or the Philippines, but still not here.

OP should be looking for something reliable and affordable that will get the job done. He is most definitely going to change or upgrade later if he sticks with it. So, IMO he shouldn't break the bank while he's learning the basics.
Sorry to sound snarky, but I see this all the time where people want to get started and all the internet advice is to buy pricey stuff. I just don't think it's necessary 99% of the time.
 

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Compare any brand name scope today to ANY scope from the 50s to the the 80s, probably the 90s too... They are far and away better than any of the glass used to be.
And I am pretty sure that 40 to 70 years ago people still made shots with the inferior glass of those days.
OP doesn't need to break the bank for a meat getter.



Also, remember there is no scope maker where everything is made in the states right now. (Please enlighten me if I'm wrong) Might be assembled here. Tubes or internals might be made here. But the glass is gonna be made elsewhere. Might be Germany, Japan or the Philippines, but still not here.

OP should be looking for something reliable and affordable that will get the job done. He is most definitely going to change or upgrade later if he sticks with it. So, IMO he shouldn't break the bank while he's learning the basics.
Sorry to sound snarky, but I see this all the time where people want to get started and all the internet advice is to buy pricey stuff. I just don't think it's necessary 99% of the time.
Yes , I will enlighten you. ALL Leupold rifle scopes are US made and assembled in Oregon. This includes the Freedom line thru the VX3 thru the VX6 line. No over seas glass at all. I am not talking binos or red dots,just scopes. For all you Vortex guys that want to throw out the "vortex warranty", you will probably need it! Leupold has been in business for 115 years and has had that warranty the entire time.(Iam not a Leupold rep, just a user). The OP did not mention budget either. I was commenting on a post about Tikkas and agreed that they are an excellent gun for the price.
 
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